Canna Coco Feeding Schedule: The A+B Feed Chart Explained
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Canna Coco Feeding Schedule: The A+B Feed Chart Explained
Canna Coco is one of the most popular ways to grow, and a big part of the appeal is how refreshingly simple its nutrient system is. At the heart of it sits a single two-part base, Canna Coco A and B, that you use for the entire grow, from seedling all the way through flowering, without ever switching bottles the way you would with soil or hydro lines. That one detail makes it wonderfully beginner-friendly. Where it gets confusing is that Canna, like every nutrient company, also sells a lineup of additives, Rhizotonic, Cannazym, Boost, and PK 13/14, and it is easy to feel you need all of them and to over-complicate a system that is meant to be easy. As a shop that stocks the whole Canna line, we would rather tell you the truth: the A and B do the job, and the extras are optional. This guide gives you the complete Canna Coco feeding schedule stage by stage, the EC targets that matter more than the milliliters, and an honest take on exactly when, and whether, to use each add-on. You can shop the line on our Canna page. We don't upsell.
The 30-Second Answer
- Canna Coco A+B is one base for the whole grow: unlike soil or hydro lines, you use the same A and B in veg and flower and simply adjust the dose to your EC, rather than switching to a separate bloom bottle.
- The one rule: always add A and B to your water separately, stirring between, and never combine the concentrated bottles directly, or they can precipitate.
- Dose to EC: aim for roughly EC 0.8 to 1.1 for seedlings, 1.2 to 1.5 in veg, and 1.4 to 2.0 in flower, then flush plain water in the final 7 to 10 days. Coco pH is about 5.5 to 6.2.
- The add-ons are optional: Rhizotonic for early roots, Cannazym for enzymes, Boost in flower, and PK 13/14 for just one week at peak bud formation, never into the flush.
The A and B is a complete program on its own. We stock the whole Canna line and will still tell you to keep it simple. We don't upsell.
Canna Coco A+B: one base for the whole grow
The single most important thing to understand about Canna Coco is that its base nutrient, Coco A and B, is designed to be used for the entire life of the plant, both vegetative growth and flowering, without switching to a different bloom formula. This sets it apart from Canna's other lines and from most competitors: Canna Terra, for soil, uses a separate Terra Vega for veg and Terra Flores for flower, and Canna Aqua and Hydro, for recirculating and run-to-waste systems, likewise split into Vega and Flores. Coco A and B, by contrast, is a single two-part formula that carries the plant all the way through, and you simply change the concentration, and therefore the EC, as the plant's needs shift, rather than changing bottles. This is what makes Canna Coco so beginner-friendly. The A and B are formulated specifically for coco coir, which matters because coco has a natural affinity for calcium and magnesium, and Canna built those elements into the formula so that, when using Canna's own coco and A and B, you often do not need a separate cal-mag supplement at all. You mix equal parts A and B every time. Run it as your complete base, adjust the strength by stage, and you have a genuinely simple, complete program, which our nutrient buyer's guide puts in context against other brands.
The one rule: mix A and B separately
As with any two-part nutrient, there is one mixing rule you must follow every time: add A and B to your water separately, never combining the concentrated bottles directly. In practice, this means you pour the correct amount of part A into your water and stir it in, then add the correct amount of part B and stir again, so that each is diluted in the water rather than meeting the other at full concentration. The reason is chemistry: the two parts are deliberately split because they contain elements, notably calcium in one and phosphates and sulfates in the other, that will react and precipitate into a solid if combined while concentrated, forming a sludge your plants cannot absorb and stripping those nutrients from your feed. Diluting each part in the water first prevents that reaction. For the same reason, never pour A and B together into a measuring cup before adding them to water, and never pre-mix a batch of full-strength nutrient solution to store for later. Always mix fresh, part A first, then part B, into your water. It is a simple habit that protects your entire feed, and getting it wrong is one of the most common and most avoidable Canna Coco mistakes.
The Canna Coco feeding chart, stage by stage
Here is the schedule in table form, matching the chart above, in milliliters per liter of each part. Notice that the A and B run the whole way through, rising through veg and flower and then dropping for the flush, while the additives layer in at specific windows. The overall shape mirrors the plant's biology, since cannabis shifts toward higher phosphorus and potassium demand during flowering, which is exactly what the rising EC and the PK 13/14 spike provide.
| Stage | Coco A + B (each) | Additives | Target EC |
|---|---|---|---|
| Seedling (weeks 1-2) | 1.5 mL/L | Rhizotonic 2-4 mL/L | 0.8 to 1.1 |
| Vegetative | 3 to 3.5 mL/L | Rhizotonic (early), Cannazym 2.5 mL/L | 1.2 to 1.5 |
| Early flower | 3.5 to 4 mL/L | Cannazym 2.5, Canna Boost 2 mL/L | 1.4 to 1.8 |
| Peak flower (about 1 week) | 4 mL/L | PK 13/14 1.5 mL/L (one week), Boost | 1.6 to 2.0 |
| Late flower | 3 to 3.5 mL/L | Canna Boost (optional) | 1.4 to 1.6 |
| Flush (final 7-10 days) | Plain pH-balanced water | under 0.5 | |
Remember that these are guidelines, not commandments, and the EC column is the more reliable guide than the milliliters, because your tap water already carries some dissolved minerals that add to the total. Canna's own charts are built on top of your water's starting EC, so you add the recommended figure to whatever your water already reads. Keep your pH in the coco range of about 5.5 to 6.2, feed frequently to a healthy 10 to 20 percent runoff since coco drains fast and likes little-and-often feeding, and adjust to what your plants show you.
When (and when not) to use PK 13/14
Of all the Canna additives, PK 13/14 is the one growers ask about most, and it is also the one most often misused, so it deserves its own section. PK 13/14 is a concentrated phosphorus and potassium spike, containing roughly 13 percent phosphorus pentoxide and 14 percent potassium oxide, designed to give flowering plants a boost of the exact nutrients they crave during bud development. The critical detail is timing: it is meant to be used for only about one week, during the peak bud-formation window, which for a typical eight-week flowering strain falls around weeks four to five of flower, when the buds have set but have not yet fully fattened. You add it at roughly 1.5 mL per liter for that week, and then you stop. What you must not do is run PK 13/14 for the entire flower or push it into the final weeks and the flush, because excess phosphorus and potassium late in the cycle stresses the plant, can cause nutrient issues, and blows up your runoff EC right when you are trying to bring it down for harvest. Used correctly, as a brief, well-timed spike, many growers find it gives a genuine bump in bud size and density; used wrong, as a constant heavy addition, it does more harm than good. Add it for a week at peak flower, then remove it well before you flush.
The other Canna add-ons: which are worth it
Beyond PK 13/14, Canna sells a handful of other additives, and here is the honest breakdown of each, because the base A and B is genuinely a complete program and none of these is strictly required. Rhizotonic is a root and vitality stimulator rich in B vitamins, and it earns its place in the first two to three weeks of a plant's life and right after transplant, where it measurably speeds root establishment; it is wasted in late flower, so stop using it once the plant is established. Cannazym is an enzyme product that breaks down dead root material and keeps your coco from going stale, and it is most worthwhile in longer grows or when you are reusing your coco from a previous run, where you would even double the dose; in a single short grow with fresh coco it is more optional. Canna Boost is a carbohydrate-based flowering stimulator that some growers find improves bud density and quality, run through the middle and later weeks of flower. Beyond these, the base A and B does the heavy lifting, and our advice, especially for your first grow, is to start with just the A and B, learn how your plants respond to the baseline, and add these extras later only if you want to, rather than buying the whole shelf at once. We stock all of them, and we will still tell you the A and B is enough to grow excellent plants. We don't upsell.
EC and pH for Canna Coco
Getting your EC and pH right matters more than hitting exact milliliter numbers, so it is worth understanding both. For EC, the key principle is to dose to a target rather than blindly following the chart, and to remember that Canna's recommended EC figures are added on top of your starting water's EC, so if your tap water already reads a certain value, your final solution should be that much higher. As a guide, aim for roughly EC 0.8 to 1.1 for seedlings, 1.2 to 1.5 in vegetative growth, and 1.4 up to 2.0 in flower, with coco tolerating slightly higher EC than soil without burning as long as your environment is dialed in. For pH, coco runs in a lower window than soil, around 5.5 to 6.2, with many growers targeting about 5.8, because that range keeps nutrients available in an inert medium, and pH matters because nutrient availability depends directly on pH, as our pH guide explains. Because coco is inert and drains quickly, it rewards frequent feeding at lower volumes, fertigating to a healthy 10 to 20 percent runoff each time to keep salts from accumulating, rather than large, infrequent soaks. Our coco watering and feeding guide covers the mechanics of watering coco properly.
Do you need cal-mag with Canna Coco?
This is a common and important question, because coco coir is notorious for needing extra calcium and magnesium, since the medium naturally binds those elements and can strip them from your feed until it is saturated. Here is the honest answer for Canna specifically: Canna Coco A and B is formulated for coco coir, with calcium and magnesium built into the formula precisely to account for coco's demand, so when you are using Canna's own pre-buffered coco together with Canna Coco A and B, you often do not need a separate cal-mag supplement at all, which is part of what makes the system so simple. That said, there are situations where you may still want to add cal-mag: if you are using reverse osmosis or very soft water, which starts with almost no calcium or magnesium, or if you are using a different, unbuffered coco product rather than Canna's, you are more likely to see cal-mag demand and benefit from a supplement. Watch your plants for the signs of calcium or magnesium deficiency, and add a cal-mag product if they appear, but do not assume you need it by default with Canna's coco and A and B. When in doubt, start without it, and add it only if the plants ask for it.
Canna Coco versus Terra and Aqua
Canna makes several substrate-specific nutrient lines, and choosing the right one is simply a matter of matching it to your growing medium, because Canna designs each line around how nutrients behave in that particular substrate. Canna Coco, the subject of this guide, is for growing in coco coir, and uses the single Coco A and B for the whole grow. Canna Terra is for growing in soil and potting mixes, and splits into Terra Vega for vegetative growth and Terra Flores for flowering, since soil buffers pH and holds nutrients differently. Canna Aqua is for recirculating hydroponic systems where the water is reused, and Canna Substra, also split into Vega and Flores, is for run-to-waste hydroponic setups using inert media like clay pebbles or rockwool. The important takeaway is that you should not mix and match: using Canna Hydro or Terra nutrients in coco, for example, typically causes calcium and magnesium problems, because those lines are not built for coco's specific chemistry, whereas Coco A and B is. So pick the line that matches your medium, and if you grow in coco, Coco A and B is the one for you. Our soil versus coco versus hydro guide helps you choose a medium in the first place.
Common Canna Coco mistakes
A handful of mistakes cause most Canna Coco problems, and steering clear of them keeps your grow on track. The most common is combining the A and B concentrates directly instead of adding each to the water separately, which causes precipitation and lost nutrients; always go part A into water, stir, then part B. The second is overfeeding by following the milliliter numbers without dosing to EC, especially when your tap water already carries minerals; measure your EC and adjust. The third, already covered, is misusing PK 13/14 by running it too long or into the flush rather than as a one-week spike at peak flower. The fourth is not providing enough runoff, since coco needs frequent feeding to 10 to 20 percent runoff to prevent salt buildup, and infrequent heavy feeds let salts accumulate. The fifth is using the wrong pH, since coco wants a lower range around 5.5 to 6.2 than soil growers may be used to. And the sixth is assuming you must buy and use every additive when the A and B is a complete base on its own. Avoid these by mixing correctly, dosing to EC, timing PK 13/14 right, feeding to runoff, keeping pH in the coco range, and keeping your lineup simple. We don't upsell, and avoiding these six matters more than any supplement.
What We'd Tell You at the Counter
If you came in ready to grow in coco with Canna, we would tell you it is one of the easiest systems to run well, and you need far less than the shelf suggests. Get Canna Coco A and B, and know that it is the only base you need for the whole grow, veg and flower alike; you just feed it stronger as the plant grows, dosing to your EC rather than chasing exact milliliters. Always add A to your water first, stir, then B, and never mix the concentrates together. Keep your pH around 5.8 for coco, feed often to a bit of runoff, and flush with plain water for the last week to ten days. If you want to add anything, the one we would reach for is PK 13/14, but only for about a week when the buds are forming, around week four or five of flower, and then stop, never into the flush. Rhizotonic helps young roots in the first couple of weeks, Cannazym earns its keep if you reuse your coco, and Boost is a nice-to-have in flower. And with Canna's own coco and A and B, you usually will not even need cal-mag. We sell every bottle Canna makes, and we will still tell you the A and B does the job. We don't upsell.
Shop the Canna Coco line
Here is the system as a shopping list, so you can grab the A and B and only the extras you actually want.
Frequently asked questions
What is the Canna Coco feeding schedule?
The Canna Coco feeding schedule is built around a single two-part base, Canna Coco A and B, used for the entire grow rather than switching between veg and bloom bottles. You mix equal parts A and B, adding each to your water separately, and increase the strength as the plant grows, dosing to a target EC of roughly 0.8 to 1.1 for seedlings, 1.2 to 1.5 in veg, and 1.4 to 2.0 in flower, then flushing with plain water for the final 7 to 10 days. On top of the base, optional additives layer in at specific windows: Rhizotonic for roots in the first weeks, Cannazym for enzymes through the grow, Canna Boost in flower, and PK 13/14 as a one-week phosphorus and potassium spike at peak bud formation. The A and B alone is a complete program that grows excellent plants, so the additives are optional extras rather than requirements. Keep pH around 5.5 to 6.2 for coco and feed to a healthy runoff.
Do you use Canna Coco A and B in both veg and flower?
Yes, and this is one of the best things about the Canna Coco line. Unlike Canna Terra, which uses separate Terra Vega and Terra Flores bottles for veg and flower, and unlike Canna Aqua and Substra, which split into Vega and Flores, Canna Coco A and B is a single formula designed to be used for the entire life of the plant, both vegetative growth and flowering. You do not switch to a different bloom nutrient; instead, you simply adjust the concentration, and therefore the EC, as the plant's needs change, feeding it stronger as it grows and then tapering for the flush. This makes the system considerably simpler and more beginner-friendly than lines that require you to change bottles partway through. The one thing you do add specifically for flowering is the optional PK 13/14 spike for about a week at peak bud formation, but the base A and B itself carries the plant all the way through both stages.
How do you mix Canna Coco A and B?
You mix equal parts of A and B, and critically, you add each one to your water separately rather than combining the concentrated bottles. In practice, pour the measured amount of part A into your water and stir it in, then add the measured amount of part B and stir again. Never pour A and B together into a cup before adding them to water, and never pre-mix a batch of full-strength solution to store. The reason is that the two parts contain elements, such as calcium in one and phosphates and sulfates in the other, that react and precipitate into an unusable solid if combined while concentrated, which wastes those nutrients and can cause deficiencies. Diluting each part in the water first prevents that reaction. Always mix fresh, part A first, then part B. This simple order protects your entire feed and avoids one of the most common Canna Coco mistakes.
When do you use Canna PK 13/14?
Canna PK 13/14 is a concentrated phosphorus and potassium booster used for only about one week, during the peak bud-formation window of flowering. For a typical eight-week flowering strain, that falls around weeks four to five of flower, when the buds have set but have not yet fully bulked up. You add it at roughly 1.5 mL per liter for that single week, then stop. The most important rule is not to overuse it: do not run PK 13/14 for the whole of flowering or push it into the final weeks and the flush, because excess phosphorus and potassium late in the cycle stresses the plant, can cause problems, and drives up your runoff EC exactly when you are trying to lower it for harvest. Used correctly as a brief, well-timed spike, it can give a real boost to bud size and density; used as a constant heavy addition, it does more harm than good. One week at peak flower, then remove it well before you flush.
Do you need cal-mag with Canna Coco?
Often not, if you are using Canna's own coco and A and B. Coco coir generally has a high demand for calcium and magnesium because it binds those elements, but Canna Coco A and B is formulated specifically for coco, with calcium and magnesium built into the formula to account for that demand, so with Canna's pre-buffered coco and A and B together, you frequently do not need a separate cal-mag supplement. However, you may still want to add cal-mag in certain situations: if you use reverse osmosis or very soft water, which starts with almost no calcium or magnesium, or if you use a different, unbuffered coco product rather than Canna's own. The practical approach is to start without a separate cal-mag when using Canna coco and A and B, watch your plants for signs of calcium or magnesium deficiency, and add a cal-mag supplement only if those signs appear. Do not assume you need it by default with this particular system.
What EC should Canna Coco be?
As a general guide, aim for an EC of roughly 0.8 to 1.1 for seedlings, 1.2 to 1.5 during vegetative growth, and 1.4 up to 2.0 during flowering, with the peak toward the higher end during heavy bud development. Coco tolerates slightly higher EC than soil without burning, provided your environment is well managed. The crucial point is that these figures are added on top of your starting water's EC, so if your tap water already reads a certain value, your final mixed solution should be that much higher than the number alone. This is why dosing to a measured EC is more reliable than simply following the milliliter amounts on a chart, since your water varies. Start on the lower end and build up, since overfeeding causes the burnt tips of nutrient burn more readily than underfeeding causes deficiency, and watch your plants and runoff. Keep coco pH around 5.5 to 6.2, and feed frequently to a 10 to 20 percent runoff.
Canna Coco versus Canna Terra: which should I use?
Choose based on your growing medium, since the two are designed for different substrates. Canna Coco, using the single Coco A and B for the whole grow, is for growing in coco coir. Canna Terra, which splits into Terra Vega for veg and Terra Flores for flower, is for growing in soil and potting mixes. You should match the line to what your roots are actually growing in, because each is formulated for that substrate's chemistry; using Terra nutrients in coco, or Coco nutrients in soil, will not give ideal results and can cause nutrient imbalances. If you grow in coco coir, use Canna Coco A and B; if you grow in soil, use Canna Terra. Coco tends to appeal to growers who want faster growth and precise control with the simplicity of a single base bottle, while soil with Terra is more forgiving and buffers minor mistakes. Neither is better overall; it comes down to which medium you are growing in and the trade-offs you prefer.
Whether you keep it to the simple A and B or add the extras you want, the Canna Coco A and B, PK 13/14, and the rest of the line live on our Canna collection, with the alternatives in our premium nutrients range if you want to compare, including how it stacks up in our Canna versus Athena comparison. Keep it simple, mix A and B separately, dose to your EC, and pair this with our guides to watering coco, avoiding nutrient burn, our Canna nutrients review, and the full week-by-week grow guide. Because, as always, we don't upsell.
For informational and educational purposes only. This article is general horticultural guidance and is not legal advice, nor is it affiliated with or endorsed by CANNA. Product names are trademarks of their respective owners. Cannabis cultivation laws vary by country, state and locality, and growing cannabis may be illegal where you live. Always understand and comply with the laws and regulations that apply to you, and follow the manufacturer's official instructions when mixing nutrients, before growing any cannabis plant.